AMAZON
When I bought my ticket to Manaus in mid-March, I already knew I would have to wait a few months for this trip. As always, I like to plan everything well in advance. But I confess that, this time, anxiety got the better of me. It even seemed like the calendar had decided to slow down!
As passionate about animals as I am, just imagining being so close to so many species living freely in their natural habitat, in the heart of the Amazon Rainforest, already filled me with euphoria. After all, it's not every day that we have the opportunity to get up close to one of the greatest biodiversity sanctuaries on the planet. And off I went, accompanied by my little traveler, Suki, on yet another adventure!
Our arrival in Manaus was marked by a surprise: the heat! I knew the city was hot and humid, but I confess I wasn't prepared for that stifling feeling. It was only after leaving the airport that I understood that, over there, the thermometers don't play around!
My first concern, naturally, was for Suki. At that moment, all I wanted was to get to the apartment I had rented so she could rest and be comfortable, away from that intense heat.
Traveling with a cat requires some special care. In addition to temperature changes, there is also the impact of leaving the familiar environment where they live and arriving in a completely unknown place, with new smells, sounds, and spaces.
That's why I always make a point of respecting her adaptation time, offering her tranquility, security, and all possible comfort. And needless to say, Suki travels with practically half her house in her suitcase! Scratching posts, sticks to play with, a little tunnel for hide-and-seek, and a whole bunch of other odds and ends that I make sure to bring so she feels at home, even when I'm far away from her. After all, she's my adventure companion, and her well-being always comes first.
With everything properly organized and Suki comfortable, it was time to start discovering the Amazon! The next morning, I woke up with that childlike euphoria of knowing I was about to experience a special day. After all, I was about to meet the famous pink river dolphins, navigate the Negro and Solimões rivers, and visit an indigenous community. Everything I had imagined for months was finally happening!
The adventure began on the banks of the immense Rio Negro, where I boarded a speedboat, also known in the region as a "voadeira," to explore those seemingly endless waters. Navigating it was a delightful experience. On one side, lush vegetation; on the other, an immensity of water that disappeared into the horizon. And there I was, in that small boat, trying to absorb every detail of that scenery. Faced with such grandeur, the boat seemed even smaller!
During the journey, I also spotted the imposing Journalist Phelippe Daou Bridge, better known as the Rio Negro Bridge, which connects Manaus to the municipality of Iranduba. An impressive structure amidst that landscape.
But I confess that my heart was especially anxious for what was to come next: the pink river dolphins!
I arrived at a floating platform, where I was warmly greeted by the local staff. One of the people in charge of the area was using fish to attract the dolphins, which soon began to approach. What extraordinary animals!
They are fascinating creatures, with delicate movements, curious behavior, and surprising agility in the water. Observing them so closely, appearing and disappearing on the surface, was one of those moments that will remain etched in memory.
After so many months waiting for that encounter, being there, so close to them, was even more special than I had imagined. And, at the same time, that proximity made me think about the importance of respecting them as wild beings, who need to remain free, healthy, and protected in their natural environment. After all, the greatest beauty of that encounter was precisely in seeing them where they truly belong: in the waters of the Amazon.
Discovery Channel moment! Look what I discovered there! Despite the name, pink river dolphins are born gray and acquire pinkish tones as they grow. And not all of them stay the same pink! Some remain more grayish, while others, especially the males, display a much more intense coloration. Apparently, each dolphin has its own style!
I then went to another spectacle of nature: the famous Meeting of the Waters , where the Rio Negro meets the Rio Solimões. What an impressive phenomenon!
On one side, the dark waters of the Rio Negro. On the other, the muddy waters of the Solimões, laden with sediments from the Andes. The most curious thing is that the two rivers flow side by side for about six kilometers, maintaining a visible division between their colors before gradually mixing and forming the course that, in Brazil, comes to be called the Amazon River.
I learned that this happens because their waters have very different characteristics. The Rio Negro is warmer, more acidic, and has a slower current. The Solimões, on the other hand, is colder, flows faster, and carries a huge amount of sediment. These differences in temperature, density, and speed mean that the mixing doesn't happen immediately. It's nature offering us a true lesson, without needing a single word!
After so many exciting moments, it was time for lunch at a floating restaurant, something quite characteristic of the region. These are structures built on the water, gently following the movement of the rivers.
And here's a delightful discovery: even though I'm vegan, I found great options to try a little bit of regional cuisine. My dish had beans, farofa (toasted cassava flour), and some typical Amazonian spices and seasonings, which gave the meal a special flavor, quite different from what I'm used to.
I also tried, for the first time, a refreshing taperebá juice, an Amazonian fruit with a slightly acidic and very characteristic flavor. And, to top it all off, a dessert that resembled a coconut pudding, flavored with cumaru, a regional seed known for its sweet, vanilla-like aroma. Once again, the Amazon managed to surprise me, this time through my palate!
But the day still held a very special experience in store, so I went to visit the Tuyuka indigenous community . I was greeted with performances of traditional dances, initiated by the community's shaman. Each dance was accompanied by an explanation, revealing aspects of daily life, customs, and the relationship of that people with nature.
I had the opportunity to participate in one of the dances, have my face painted, and discover a little more about the knowledge passed down from generation to generation. It was an invaluable experience that sparked my admiration and invited me to deep reflection.
Indigenous peoples are not just part of the history of the Amazon. They are part of its present and are fundamental to its future. Their languages, beliefs, traditions, and ways of life need to be respected. And, above all, their territories need to be protected. Preserving the forest also means ensuring that these peoples can maintain their ways of life and their ancestral knowledge, passing this legacy on to future generations.
I left there with an even greater admiration for indigenous peoples and with the certainty that we have much to learn from the way they understand and relate to nature. I ended that day with the wonderful feeling of having lived experiences that go far beyond a simple trip.
I also set aside time to explore the city of Manaus, walk through its traditional market, discover aspects of local life, and appreciate the work of the region's artisans.
I confess I couldn't resist! I could have even returned with a little more space in my suitcase, but, faced with so many beautiful pieces, made by the hands of indigenous people and local artisans, the temptation was too great!
I ended up bringing back some handicrafts that carry a bit of the history, art, and identity of this place. Today, these little trinkets beautify my home and make me fondly remember the days I spent in the Amazon. After all, some memories deserve to travel back home with us!
But the region still had a surprise in store for me. At dusk, I returned to the waters of the Rio Negro for another boat trip, this time with the opportunity to explore it at night.
Watching the daylight slowly fade over that scene was a spectacle in itself. Gradually, the landscape changed, the sounds of nature took on a new dimension, and everything seemed to acquire an air of mystery.
It was during this nighttime walk that I had the privilege of observing alligators in their natural habitat. I almost went crazy seeing them so close! For a moment, I thought my cell phone was going to malfunction, from all the photos and videos I took!
Being in the presence of these animals in the wild, perfectly integrated into that environment, was another moment of profound gratitude for being able to live this adventure. The Amazon is truly a universe apart. A place where life manifests itself in so many different ways and where each species, from the smallest to the largest, plays a fundamental role in the balance of the forest.
However, the same darkness that brought the mystery of the night and the glint of the alligators' eyes soon revealed the forest's most painful side. During the journey, the man driving the speedboat, born and raised in that region, drew my attention to some fires that could already be seen in the distance. He pointed and said: "All arson fires set by very evil people."
Here I want to emphasize something. I wasn't listening to the explanation of someone who simply knew that tourist route. It was someone who grew up on the banks of those rivers, who knows the vegetation, the waterways, and the unique characteristics of the forest. Someone for whom the Amazon is not a travel destination, but part of their own life.
It was through the eyes of someone who belongs to that land that I became aware of that sad reality. The eyes of someone who knows not only the beauty of the region, but also the threats that now endanger the place where they live.
After so many experiences admiring that natural heritage, observing its animals, and learning about the relationship of indigenous peoples with the forest, it was painful to realize that part of it all was being consumed by fire.
I had waited so many months to see those animals in the wild, never imagining that, during the same trip, I would also encounter such a sad reality: the threat to their habitat. And that concern would stay with me far beyond the waters of the Rio Negro.
What we are seeing in the news now is frightening. In October 2026, the Amazon will face a serious forest fire crisis, with 36 municipalities in a state of emergency. Between October 1st and 7th alone, 644 hotspots were recorded in the state, compared to 277 in the same period of the previous year, according to data from the National Institute for Space Research (INPE).
Smoke compromises air quality, harms public health, and disrupts the daily lives of thousands of people. It's a very serious situation that deserves our full attention. But amidst so many images of cities shrouded in smoke, there's a tragedy that almost never receives the same attention. What about the animals? Who is looking out for them?
Behind every area consumed by fire, there are lives. Sloths that cannot escape quickly, cubs that depend on their mothers, birds that lose their nests, and thousands of small animals that find their only shelter in the vegetation.
Many die during the fires. Others survive the flames, but find a devastated forest, without food, without protection, and without the conditions to continue living as before. The suffering does not end when the fire goes out. The recovery of an ecosystem can take decades, and some losses are irreversible.
It is painful to think that a large part of these fires originate from human action. The destruction of the Amazon cannot be treated with indifference. We need to demand oversight, prevention, and effective preservation policies.
I returned from this trip even more in love with this immense natural wealth, but also deeply concerned about its future. I had the privilege of exploring a small part of this magnificent universe, observing its animals in freedom, navigating immense rivers, and learning from people whose stories are deeply connected to that land.
Perhaps it is precisely because I have witnessed so much beauty that today I am even more saddened to think of all that we might lose.
The Amazon is not just a wonderful landscape to admire during a trip. It is home to millions of living beings, the territory of peoples who deserve respect, and an essential part of the balance of our planet.
The animals did not cause this destruction, and they cannot report what is happening, ask for help, or demand that their homes be protected. That responsibility is ours.
May the images of the fires not only awaken concern about the smoke reaching our cities, but also awareness of all the lives being destroyed. Because the smoke from the fires can reach our homes. But the animals that live in the forest have nowhere to escape.
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