NICE

Those who know me know: Nice is my second home.

But anyone who thinks that the charm of this city is limited to the hypnotic blue of the Mediterranean is mistaken. Nice is a vibrant soul, poetry in ancient facades, art on every corner, history pulsating under the sun of the French Riviera.

This elegant corner of the south of France is where culture meets the sea. Every walk reveals a new detail and, in a charming square, time seems to slow down.

And although this space on the website is dedicated to the incredible animals that cross my path around the world, today the protagonist is another: the Ocean and its marine life. That's because, this week, Nice will be the stage for a crucial event: the United Nations Ocean Conference, which brings together representatives from more than 120 countries in an urgent conversation about the future of the seas. It's beautiful to see this city that I love so much becoming a center of hope and dialogue for a bluer, more vibrant, more conscious planet.

I'm used to the constant coming and going of tourists and the lightness of the mornings that start slowly among the stalls of Marché Saleya, where the colorful fruits, vegetables and flowers mix with the lively singing of the traders. Around here, the days usually have the lazy rhythm of the Mediterranean breeze. But this time, everything has changed, and not insignificantly.

Suddenly, the calm gave way to intense, almost choreographed activity. As if by magic – or rather, by the state – the city gained new faces. Police officers came from all corners of France, civilians, military, in uniform or in plain clothes, taking up positions on every corner, at strategic points. Nice, always so open, now has kilometers of fences that reorganize the flow of the city, making traffic insane.

The police cars, with their sirens, cut through the traditional sound of seagulls and waves. Along the waterfront avenues, the scene changes: imposing motorbikes and their police officers parade at high speed, escorting heads of state on their way to conferences spread throughout the city. Nice is different. Intense. Solemn.

As the ultimate landmark of the French Riviera, the luxurious Hotel Negresco became the venue for the opening of the conference, welcoming no less than eighty international leaders to a gala dinner. Under the spotlights and a tight security system, the hosts of the evening, Emmanuel Macron and the First Lady, Brigitte, welcomed the entire world to the charming Promenade des Anglais.

Needless to say, the number of heavily armed police officers around was, to say the least, obscene. The scene was like something out of a movie: barriers, roadblocks, sirens, men in black with rifles in hand. Passing in front of the hotel became almost an impossible mission, with suspicious looks. But of course I wasn't going to miss it. So I went to take a peek, discreetly but determinedly, even if it meant being searched from head to toe.

One detail of this plot: my apartment is practically next to Negresco. The result? To enter or leave my street, you have to have the authorization of the police. Where I live has become a maze decorated with fences, police cars and watchful eyes. An urban experience worthy of an international summit.

In the face of this madness, here's a refreshing break for the eyes: with the mastery of his brushes, artist Lio Settini, a distinguished participant in this event, transformed the sidewalks into works of art. His paintings of marine life, with their fascinating realism, looked more like photographs printed on the ground.

For us mere mortals, there was no shortage of memorable moments either. The city prepared itself to welcome not only the great names of world politics, but also the curious public, passionate or “simply” enchanted by the sea.

As night fell, the sky over Nice was transformed into a mesmerizing spectacle: 2,025 drones danced across the sky, drawing silhouettes of whales, jellyfish, schools of fish and other marine wonders in the air. An aerial ballet of light and technology that made even the most distracted look up in wonder like children.

And on a sunny afternoon, the kind that only Nice can offer, everyone's eyes turned to the sea. The " Merveilles de l'Océan " sailing parade crossed the bay in a parade of sails, masts and floating elegance. A poetic tribute to maritime life, combined with the beauty of the wind.

In a wave of hope and alert, environmentalists took to the shore with the "Blue March", a symbolic walk that, with posters, songs and a vibrant presence, drew everyone's attention to the urgent and silent crisis that plagues the oceans. For the most engaged, free lectures and conferences opened space for debate and learning, while, on the other side of the barriers, world leaders discussed the future of our oceans.

A United Nations event in my backyard? Of course I couldn’t miss it. I immediately got my badge. Because experiencing this historic moment up close… it’s the kind of thing you never forget. Finally, the legacy of Paul Watson, a fearless pioneer in the defense of the seas, is gaining new life. Founder of Sea Shepherd, he led direct and bold actions against illegal whaling and predatory fishing. Protecting the oceans at all costs is not only his motto, it’s his practice – a life mission that continues to inspire leaders, activists and a new generation of environmental defenders around the world.

And never has the fight been so urgent. Our oceans are facing a silent, yet profound crisis, and that is exactly what is on the agenda at the UN Conference here in Nice. The waters that cover more than 70% of the planet are choked by tons of plastic, chemicals and sewage being dumped without control. Marine life, once abundant, is now surrounded by trash and invisible threats.

Overfishing, often illegal and unregulated, is emptying the oceans, compromising entire ecosystems and the livelihoods of millions of people who depend on them. At the same time, global warming is raising ocean temperatures, leading to coral bleaching, species displacement and rising sea levels. As if that weren’t enough, excess carbon dioxide in the atmosphere is acidifying these waters, profoundly affecting shellfish, corals and many other forms of life.

Marine biodiversity is in freefall. Vital habitats such as coral reefs, mangroves and underwater meadows are disappearing before our eyes. And amid all this, a fundamental question arises: who cares for the ocean? How can we ensure that all countries, including the most vulnerable, have fair and sustainable access to its resources?

At the center of all this silent destruction are the true inhabitants of the oceans: fish, whales, dolphins, turtles and many other marine species are paying a high price for human choices. Entangled in fishing nets discarded on the high seas, poisoned by microplastics that invade their bodies, suffocated by toxic waste and noise pollution. They live – and die – in an increasingly hostile environment.

Whales, for example, have their calls drowned out by the incessant noise of ships and military sonar, which disorients their migratory routes and separates them from their young. Dolphins and seals, naturally curious, often approach vessels and end up injured or killed; fish are caught on a large scale, often while still young, preventing the regeneration of the species. Even coral reefs, which are home to about 25% of marine life, are dying due to rising temperatures, acidification of the seas and predatory tourism.

Not to mention the luxury goods and the promise of adventure on the high seas: tourist cruises are among the biggest culprits. They dump tons of untreated sewage directly into the sea, release highly polluting gases into the air and contribute significantly to the degradation of marine life and sensitive coastal ecosystems.

The city of Nice is becoming a global stage where the future of the oceans – and the planet – is being discussed. World leaders are coming together to discuss concrete solutions, expand marine protected areas, strengthen international cooperation and, above all, remind the world that without a healthy ocean, there is no future.

Suffering is real, it is silent. And, often, it is invisible. Therefore, discussing the future of the oceans is, above all, talking about compassion, justice and respect for all forms of life that inhabit them.

Photo Credits:

Turtle – Geraldine Duke

Fishing Boat – Eike Detmold

Corals - Ellecamp

Other photos – personal collection